A restaurant with chefs foraging edible plants in the woods and fields around the restaurant is not a particularly uncommon sight today. Foraging almost seems to be more common than a restaurant serving foie gras and caviar. When you have dinner at Daniel Berlin Krog in southern Sweden you will most likely be served some foraged plants. But unlike most chefs Daniel Berlin has taken a step further and is also a hunter. When Daniel Berlin ended the 2013 season with three ”Hunt Dinners” (Viltmiddag) he had himself hunted every animal that was served. I was lucky to attend the very last dinner of the season on December 7.
What made this dinner special is that during the greatest part of the year the menu at Daniel Berlin is more about fish and vegetables than meat. Animals featured on the menu were wild duck, pheasant, goose, wild boar, roe deer and venison. I have quite recently posted a review of Daniel Berlin Krog. I will therefore not give a general presentation of the restaurant this time.
Quail egg and leavened wild boar
Since more than a month has passed since the dinner and I do not take notes while eating I do not remember every dish in detail so that I can give a dish-for-dish review. Like my previous dinner at Daniel Berlin this one was absolutely brilliant. The quality of the produce was stunning and everything was cooked to perfection. On my three dinners I cannot remember one single remark. Daniel is a master of bringing out flavour of every ingredient. All the dishes were perfectly balanced.
Dried and burned onion
Time and place (in Nordic Cuisine) is the name of René Redzepi’s second cookbook. Time and place is also a good description of the food at Daniel Berlin because he only works with ingredients from the area close to the restaurant. That means you will not be served scallops from Norway or vendace roe from Kalix. I do not think that it is possible to use the term terroir when describing a restaurant because a dinner is composed of many different courses and flavours. But at Daniel Berlin you come quite close to the notion of terroir because your dinner will always consist of the local ingredients which are its peak at that specific time.
Wild duck liver on spicy bread
There are few restaurants which manage to make you feel so welcomed and at home than Daniel Berlin. I have only been to Daniel Berlin three times but it already feels like I have known the restaurant for many years. I will of course return to Skåne Tranås many times. I recommend that you as soon as possible book a table for the 2014 season because it will not take long before every table is reserved.
Tartar of roe deer, dried blood, blueberry leaves and forest plants
Svartsoppa (blak soup), goose offals, plums and cherries
Jerusalem artichoke, deer marrow, cold herbs and sour milk
Roe deer tongue, heart and liver
Venison, cabbage and Rubinola
Pear and old cucumber
Goat yoghurt, salty meringue and rosemary
Raw milk, spelt and blue raspberries