Djuret, Ekstedt, Esperanto, Volt and Lilla Ego

The blog is still alive. I just have not had much time to post new reviews. I have just bought a new apartment, which has taken, up a lot of my spare time. But as soon as I have finished all the renovations I will try to update the blog more frequently. Since my last blog post I have had lunch at Djuret, dinners at Ekstedt, Esperanto, Volt and Lilla Ego (all in Stockholm).

Restaurant Djuret – The Friday lunch

Djuret The Friday Lunch - The roast beef fried in cast iron 58°. Served with a cream of roasted ceps, butter fried girolles, baked point cabbage, roasted parsley root and red wine jus

The roast beef fried in cast iron 58°. Served with a cream of roasted ceps, butter fried girolles, baked point cabbage, roasted parsley root and red wine jus

Restaurant Djuret is normally only open for dinner but every Friday they also serve lunch. For the Friday Lunch a three-course prix fix menu for 395 kr is offered. At Djuret, which is Swedish for the animal, focus is on meat and they serve one animal at a time. This time – cow. Unfortunately this lunch was a little bit uneven. Not as good as the food at Djuret normally is. I found the starter and the dessert a bit unbalanced. The main course however was absolutely wonderful, pure love on a plate. There is probably not at better way to spend a friday afternoon in Stockholm than having a long lunch with good wines at Djuret. You can see pictures from the lunch on my Flickr-page.

Ekstedt

At Restaurant Ekstedt everything is cooked using fire in some kind; in wood burning stoves, over a fire pit or through smoking. Last winter Zagat named Ekstedt one of the ten hottest restaurants in the world and in March the restaurant, with head chef Gustav Otterberg, won its first Michelin star. Late last year I had a very good dinner that really sparkled. I am sorry to say but my first dinner was quite disappointing. Several dishes were unbalanced with disharmonious flavor combinations. It lacked the magic that last years dinner had.

Head chef Gustav Otterberg and Sous chef Niklas Bergström in action 2

A couple of weeks after my dinner I was invited by Niklas Ekstedt to try the restaurant’s almost completely new menu. This time the food was much better. The dishes were much better balanced. The sharp edges were gone and the food just tasted better. It was a solid one Michelin star dinner. You can see pictures from the dinners on my Flickr-page.

Esperanto

Esperanto Primeur egg with wild herbs, broccoli and ox marrow

Primeur egg with wild herbs, broccoli and ox marrow

A couple of weeks ago I had dinner at Esperanto, which in this year’s White Guide was ranked the number one restaurant in Sweden. The dinner was good but not as good as my visit last year. This time we did not sit in the dining room but in the lounge adjacent to the dining room. It is very dark in the lounge. The pictures from the dinner are therefore not very good. Service was excellent as always. It was correct yet very friendly. I cannot remember one single restaurant in Europe, which beats Esperanto when it comes to service. Restaurant manager Erika Lindström with team does a fantastic job in the dining room.

I might not be as content with the above-mentioned meals as I have been with my previous visits but I am still longing to revisit all three. I know that they can perform better.

This week I had a two very good dinners. First I went to Restaurant Volt in Stockholm. Guide Michelin has not really recognized Volt but it is, in my opinion, a very strong candidate for a star in next year’s edition of Main Cities of Europe. I will post a review soon.

I also had a quick dinner at this fall’s most anticipated restaurant opening in Stockholm; Lilla Ego. The restaurant is owned by the reigning chef of the year (Årets kock) Daniel Räms and a previous winner of the same contest Tom Sjöstedt. Don’t expect competition style food at Lilla Ego though. Ok, right now you can eat the dish that won Räms the title Årets kock (Chef of the year) but besides that, as far as I have understood, focus is on comfort food, but probably with a twist. I had two courses. Both super delicious. The atmosphere is very happy and friendly. I will return soon for a review and most likely several more dinners. Lilla Ego has the potential to attract many regulars in the area (and I am happy to live not far from Lilla Ego). With the pork tartar (below) they have probably already created a signature dish.

Lilla Ego Unclassical tartar of pork with flavour of deep Småland interpreted by Lilla Ego

Unclassical tartar of pork with flavours of deep Småland interpreted by Lilla Ego.

Lilla Ego Saltbaked celeriac with fried padrones and pickled vegetables served with a lemon and roasted garlic sausage

Saltbaked celeriac with fried padrones and pickled vegetables served with a lemon and roasted garlic sausage

In about a month I will revisit Daniel Berlin Krog in southern Sweden, which will host a special game dinner. My last dinner at Daniel Berlin was absolutely stunning so the expectations are quite high.

From now on you can also find me in the Swedish magazine Restaurangvärlden where I will contribute regularly.

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