Vollmers – Malmö

One of my greatest gastronomic discoveries last year was restaurant Vollmers in Malmö. Considering the two brothers Mats and Ebbe Vollmer’s impressive CV:s it was a bit strange that I had not heard much about the restaurant. Before opening his own restaurant Ebbe was executive chef at Jaan in Singapore when it was ranked number 39 on San Pellegrino’s The World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Despite that Vollmers did not get much press. It is still pretty quiet about Vollmers. I can’t help wondering if the lack of mentions in social media is due to the fact that they do not cook New Nordic food (even though most of their produce is very local), which especially in Malmö and nearby Copenhagen seems to be the cooking style you should follow if you want to get attention nowadays. If that’s the case I think it is very sad. Diversity is enriching and the food at Vollmers is excellent.

I had planned on writing an extensive review of my last dinner at Vollmers but unfortunately I do not have the time. I will therefore just post the pictures and give a summarized opinion of the meal.

Vollmers sommarmeny

Last year’s dinner was very good. This year’s was even better. The type of food (maybe one could describe it as continental European) that Ebbe and Mats Vollmer cook is very close to the type of food that I like the most. I generally prefer this type of food over New Nordic style food. All of the dishes were very well balanced and very delicious. Quality of the produce was high. Not on Hedone-level but very good (but Hedone-level is extremely rare). In principle everything was cooked to perfection.

My only real remark was the lamb which was not very tender. It also lacked the browning it should have had since it was presented as having been pan fried (after spending time in a water bath or owen). The white asparagus soup was a bit tame. Not as good as the white asparagus soup I had at Vollmers last year. Best dish of the night was the one with tomatoes, smoked marrow and sea sandwort. The quality and sweetness of the tomatoes was stunning. The tomatoes had all been cooked differently; grilled, salted, dried and confit. The combination with the sea sandwort that added saltiness and the lightly smoked butter sauce was absolutely magical. An other highlight was the predessert; a wonderful meadowsweet granité.

Service was excellent and very friendly. I really do want to go back to Vollmers again. Highly recommended.

Pâte à choux with béchamel

Branddeg med bechamel Vollmers

Potato chip with dried cod roe – Boiled potato with matjes herring

Potato chips with mayonnaise and powdered cod roe - boiled potato with matjes herring Vollmers

Potato foam and smoked mackerel

Smoked mackerel and potato foam Vollmers

Asparagus with licorice and nasturtium emulsion

Asparagus, licorice and nasturtium Vollmers

White asparagus, trout roe and dried lobster coral

Asparagus, trout roe and lobster coral and emulsion Vollmers

Asparagus, trout roe and lobster coral and emulsion and asparagus soup Vollmers

Tomatoes, smoked marrow and sea sandwort

Tomatoes, smoked marrow and sea sandwort and butter sauce Vollmers

Sweetbreads, mushrooms and almonds

Veal sweet breads, wild mushrooms and almond Vollmers

Lamb, green peas and cabbage

Lamb, green peas and cabbage Vollmers

Goat cheese and strawberries

Unripe strawberries and goat cheese Vollmers

Meadowsweet granité

Älgört mandel och äpple Volymers

Strawberries, caraibe and lavender

Jordgubbar, caraibe och lavendel Vollmers

Mignardises

Mignardises Vollmers

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More pictures with higher resolution on Flickr.

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