Taillevent is one of the classic luxury restaurants in Paris. It held three stars in Guide Michelin from 1973 until 2007 when it was demoted to two stars, which it still has today. According to experienced eater Andy Hayler it seems like Taillevent again is cooking on the three star level (read his review here). Back in 2006 I had an excellent lunch at Taillevent but this time there was unfortunately not time for a visit. In 2001 Taillevent opened a second restaurant called L’Angle du Faubourg on 195 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Last year the new owners of Taillevent and L’Angle du Fauborg remade the latter into a brasserie named Les 110 de Taillevent.
In Les 11o de Taillevent focus seems to be more on wine than on food. On its webpage brasserie director Olivier Le Guyader says that “The key to unlocking the pleasures of this menu is its wines…” Each dish on the menu comes with four suggestions of wine in four different price ranges. In total there are 110 different wines served by the glass. You can choose if you want to have 7 cl or 14 cl glasses. The wines come in a very wide price range with the cheapest starting at €6 and the most expensive, a 2002 Château d’Yquem costing €98 for a glass.
The Squid Plancha style, “Espelette’s spice” and chorizo
Squid, relatively thin slices of chorizo, salad and Espelette peppers. The squid was perfectly cooked and of high quality but the chorizo was rather mediocre. Despite that, it was a simple yet tasty dish.
The Flank Steak, candied shallot and marrow, red wine sauce, potato purée
The meat was not of very high quality. Tastewise it was rather bland. It was perfectly cooked though. The sauce and the candied shallots were nice.
The Childhood Memories
The dinner ended with four small desserts, from left to right. Floating egg island, Rice pudding, Crème caramel and Chocolate mousse. The dessert was rather disappointing. The Crème Anglaise with the floating island tasted like if it was made of vanillin instead of real vanilla. The other three desserts were “ok” but non of them was really good. The quality of the produce were rather low. Not good.
This was unfortunately a rather uninspiring dinner. I did not expect Michelin star food but I did think that the second restaurant of Taillevent would perform at a higher level. Benoit, which I visited the same week, was much better. There was no heart and soul in the cooking. The starter was actually very nice but rest of the dinner was rather bland. All was not bad though. A glass of 2007 Domaine Leflaive Bâtard-Montrachet saved my dinner. It seems like you can have some decent wine at Les 110 but it is not a restaurant worth visiting if you are looking for good food. I will not return to Les 110 de Taillevent and I cannot recommend you do either.